On Saturday 15th March we left Birmingham with most of our stuff and headed west. We had finally eaten our pheasant on Friday night and it was delicious so quickly made a rabbit casserole to the same recipe to take away with us, and got the car packed up and got away by 10am. We were due at Richard and Lyn’s at 5pm about an hour and a half’s drive away so we spent the day pottering in the countryside. We went to find Eastnor castle, which was closed but the village was really cute and we looked at a very weird pottery. Next stop was Ledbury, which is a really gorgeous town and we spent a while strolling around it.
It has a butchers row similar to the famous one in York only nowhere near as crowded and with much more original charm. The church is really interesting and huge for the size of the village. It has a completely separate belltower although it looks like it ought to be joined. There is also an extra wing which from the inside looks really modern with huge and very open stained glass windows but from the outside looks the oldest part of the church. They had lots of nice little touches like a bowl of water for the dogs at the door and a children’s play area, and I think its probably one of the nicest churches I’ve been to. Then we got pies for our lunch from the gourmet butchers – I had an Elizabeth pasty which is apparently a traditional Herefordshire thing and it was delicious. The buildings were really cute, lots of black and white houses and an old woolmarket building in the centre.
Then we headed back out around the Herefordshire countryside, which is really pretty and we drove towards Ross looking for a nice cidery. Most of them were closed but we went to the cider museum and tasted a couple of other cider products and chatted with the lady there about NZ. We didn’t actually tour the museum but carried on and found two cideries open, both of which we had been to before with Richard. The first one we didn’t like particularly and had to stand outdoors in the rain to taste, which didn’t exactly encourage us. The second was great and we spent quite a while there chatting and tasting lots of different things and bought some apple juice, cider and perry. He also gave us a big bunch of mistletoe which made me very happy although he would rather we had taken all of it from his whole orchard. We also stopped at a cheese factory at Monklands and got some nice cheese – they had a lovely nettle cheese. We wandered round a couple of the black and white villages but then lost the trail so gave up and went back to Richard and Lyn’s. We had a lovely evening with them just chatting and eating and drinking. They are also interested in organic farming and we discussed lots of different ideas and the discussion carried on over breakfast until we got going again about 11am on Sunday morning.
We had another day to fill in but it went rather quickly. We drove down to Abergavenny and got some tourist information and looked around the town and the castle. The castle was really pleasant and we thought it would be a good option for the picnic if the weather was not so good or if there was anything wrong with the plan for White castle as it has nice ruins and is fairly sheltered. Then we stopped at the supermarket for provisions and headed to White castle, which we found after several attempts, partly because the sign had been turned around so was invisible. We had a stroll around and took some photos and considered options for where to have the ceremony and where to have the picnic. Lynnie called and was already at the cottage so we went there to meet her and got quickly settled in. The cottage is advertised as recently refurbished but we think that is in the grand scheme of time because it can’t have been done since the 1970’s however it is homely and perfectly adequate. In some ways it’s a shame they did refurbish it because it can’t have been far off medieval before that and would be great for our medieval banquet. We went for a quick jaunt before dark to Skenfrith castle and Grosmont castle and I was very pleased we did because it really confirmed that White castle was the right decision for the picnic. Both of the others were nice but fairly simple and also both were a lot more public than White. When we got back to the cottage Lynnie made a roast dinner complete with homemade Yorkshire pudding and roast tatties and we had a lovely evening.
At 3am on 17 March, for no apparent reason at all, I suddenly remembered my accident. Even though it was 10 and 3/4 years ago, I hadn’t ever been able to remember the details of it before but suddenly it all came rushing back to me. So poor Steve had to hear the whole story over again even though he knew it well because it was all new to me. I kept telling the story all day because it was a part of my life that was completely new to me. It didn’t feel bad or scary at all but oddly freeing. In the morning, thinking of everyone else going off to work, we went for a walk up Skerrit, which is the nearest mountain (actually a fairly small hill but it makes me feel better if I climbed a mountain). The walk starts off through woodland which was really pretty with lots of moss covered trees and stone walls. Then it starts to open out a bit and there’s a nice wee dell with plenty of fairies around and then a small climb to the ridge. Once we got onto the ridge it was a bit cooler but a very pleasant stroll along to the top from which there were fantastic views all around the black mountains and the Brecon Beacons. 
As we were walking back down we looked down onto the top of an airplane, which was quite disturbing. We collected stones for making the circle for the ceremony and fresh hawthorn leaves for in the salad. The walk didn’t take as long as we expected so we had time to go into Abergavenny for a coffee before leaving to pick Jay up from Newport. We got Jay back to the cottage then met Lynnie again at the craft shop down the road where we found her sat by the fire with a coffee and chatting to a dog. The craft shop had some really nice stuff and some good ideas including a gorgeous cast iron gate with a tree as the body of the gate and a squirrel on the top bar, that cost thousands of pounds, and a cute mobile made of leaves that had been laminated and hung on a string with some beads and was apparently worth £18 – I guess welsh leaves must be pretty important. We headed up the valley to visit a couple of churches Richard had recommended including Llanthony Priory where Lynnie and I had hoped to go horse-riding but they were not yet open for the season, and we had also hoped for drink in the pub in the priory but it was also closed, never-the-less the Priory was very pretty and slightly odd in that there was a farmhouse and outbuildings built onto the inside of its ruined walls – obviously the current building regulations and ancient monument regulations did not exist when the house was built.
We also visited Patricio church, which also had a sacred well and a hermit cell.
It was a gorgeous church with very prolific daffodils in the yard.
I wonder why daffodils in churchyards always seem brighter and more prolific than other places. We chilled out back at the cottage for a while then went off to find a cute pub for dinner. Our first attempt failed, despite saying open on the door and the hours on the board suggesting they should be open, there was no sign of life at all, so we headed to the oldest pub in Wales, which was a good decision. We got a table by the fire and had tasty dinners and an amazing sticky toffee pudding for dessert and the atmosphere was lovely. It had lots of great features, like it used be where the local hangings took place and the beam they hung people from is still there complete with worn rope grooves. The door is the original one from when the pub opened in 1100, with the court upstairs.
Tuesday 18 March was a year and a day after our Celtic wedding so our vows had to be renewed. Fortunately the weather was good and we were all well organised. We had a relaxed morning with everyone pitching in getting things ready and packing the car up. We went up to White Castle just after 1200 and got the stones laid out in a circle and flowers scattered around the circle. Lisa arrived after getting a little lost and we had the ceremony in a wee dell just outside the castle walls but with a lovely view over the moat to the castle in one direction and through trees and over the countryside in the other direction. The ceremony was short (a very abridged version of last years) and Jay and Lynnie led it.
Afterwards we adjourned into the castle interior for a medieval picnic lunch,
which was great but got rather chilly – especially as us girls had only light dresses on. We had some sort of shawl each and we all had thermals on our legs so if you got a flash of leg it looked rather silly.
Fortunately the ground had dried out quite a bit since Sunday and we didn’t have to hitch our dresses up from the mud whenever we were walking. We took a few photos


and decided to call it a day when Jay’s lips started going blue. We all went back to the cottage to defrost with warm drinks and sat and chatted for the afternoon. After Lisa had to head away the rest of us went for a wee walk down the lane and through the fields. We heard foxes in the valley although we still never saw any but there were plenty of playful lambs. We were supposed to have a medieval banquet in the evening but the setting didn’t seem right somehow so we ate our medieval food while watching a DVD! Then we all got an early night.
Lynnie had to leave in the morning to go back to work but Jay stayed with us and we went sightseeing around the Brecon Beacons for the day. Our first stop was the Welsh Crannog centre – the site of the only known crannog outside Scotland and which was inaccessible due to very high lake level.
We had been hoping to walk up a hill but the wind was really icy cold so after a brief stop at the particularly useless information centre in Brecon we headed to the Mountain centre. It was less windy there and we had a short walk in search of a remnant of Roman road, which we never found, but the walk was lovely and the views of the Beacons were gorgeous.
We had a picnic lunch in the sunshine at the mountain centre then wandered back to the cottage. Even though it was not warm the sun was shining and we put on all our thermals and sat outside for a nice warm drink and to enjoy the sunshine and watch the lambs in our garden playing. 
We had a quiet evening and an early night and then got all packed up in the morning and headed east.
We had a really good run on the roads and got to Welford in just over 2 hours. We reorganised our packing and visited with Pauline then headed to St Neots to drop Jay at her parents place. After a cup of tea we carried on for our jaunt around Norfolk. The further we went the worse the rain got and since we were planning to stroll around Ely we made a rapid change of plan and just carried on driving over to Ipswich and got the longest part o f the drive over with. It took a while to find somewhere to stay but we discovered the Oxfam network of B&B’s, which are a bit cheaper and donate part of their fee to Oxfam. Apparently they don’t serve a cooked breakfast but this lady likes to anyway. They were a lovely couple running it and we chatted with them for a while and then just had a quiet evening in nibbling on leftovers for our dinner. It was in a town called Eyke, which is apparently the old word for oak – presumably in Anglo-Saxon rather than British.
On Good Friday morning we had a leisurely start, a good breakfast, and headed to Orford. Its quite a pretty wee town that is nearly on the seaside except for a shingle spit which has been growing since the 15th century and ruined the previously good port the town had. It has a pretty 11th century castle, which is on the only hill for miles (about 4 metre above the rest of the area) and certainly catches the wind, which there was plenty of today. We also followed our noses to a nice wee smokehouse but resisted buying anything. Next stop was Snape where we briefly visited the maltings, which is a collection of shops and one of the best concert halls in England as Benjamin Britain is from here and set it up. The rest of our morning we spent at Sutton Hoo, which was a real cultural eye opener. It is a recreation of a 7th century boat burial and the original mounds where the burials were found.
The really amazing thing was the perspective of who was ‘us’ and who was the ‘invaders’. All the history we have been used to has the British as ‘us’ and the angles, Saxons, jutes and Vikings as ‘invaders’. But here they appear to forget they have any British heritage at all because the Anglo-Saxons are ‘us’. I can understand that somewhat because the Anglo-Saxons essentially wiped out the British culture from that area but it puzzles me when we get to the Vikings, who were considered invaders, where actually they also integrated into the local culture. It was really interesting to see things from the point of view of who I have always considered the invaders. Interesting historical facts are simply missed out depending on who is telling the story. I think the modern people here also reflect this difference in culture and are a bit different to the rest of the British people in the same way the Cornish are different. This is probably helped by the fact they are virtually cut off by water on all 4 sides – sea on three and broads and fens on the other. The other interesting thing was the complexity of some of the jewellery and art. They had amazingly fine chain, enamelled metalwork, and fine silver and gold filigree.
It was all made to a skill that was clearly lost at some point during the dark ages, as what you see from medieval times was not as skilled. Much of the jewellery would not be out of place in a modern jewellery store. Although the dark ages were named for the lack of written history they were not dark in term of skills, artistry or clothing, however by the time we emerge into the medieval much of this had been lost. The burial mounds themselves were largely uninteresting to people who had several in their ‘back garden’ in Orkney and it was cold and started to sleet and snow on us so we beat a hasty retreat.
Our next stop was Southwold, to visit an amber museum, which was small, moderately interesting and fortunately free. We started looking for somewhere to have lunch and ended up having dinner in Hoveton. We thought we’d go to Beccles but found not much there and carried on aiming for Reedham in the Broads. There was a really little 2-car chain ferry to cross the river to Reedham, which was a pretty town on the waterside but we didn’t find lunch or accommodation. We wandered around lots of increasingly cute broads villages and were completely wowed by Woodbastwick and Horning but eventually found accommodation and food in one building in Hoveton. We stayed in the Kings head pub and had a drink and dinner in the pub, which was excellent. I’m not sure if I was just really hungry or if I had some of the best tasting chips, peas and gravy I’ve had never mind the suet steak and kidney pudding. Steve also thought his Cumberland bangers and mash in Yorkshire pudding was great and their sticky toffee pudding didn’t disappoint us either. They also had free wireless Internet access so I finally got to skype chat with a couple of people back in NZ, and update some things on my computer.
Saturday morning we debated whether to hire a boat for a couple of hours on the broads and eventually decided it was a good idea despite the threat of snow and the wind still howling. All the day trips had been cancelled due to the weather and no other day boats were going out but we had a voucher that made it quite affordable and we only had one chance. It turned out to be a great idea as the boats were mostly covered and we could sit inside and drive, and with 15 layers of clothing on we didn’t get cold despite bursts of hail and snow.
There were also glorious spells of sunshine and it was lovely to sit out in the sunshine watching the birdlife and scenery going by. The Broads are a huge area of permanently flooded river plains and the wildlife viewing is great and the wee villages are built right on the water with thatched cottages, thatched mansions, thatched boathouses and boat moorings instead of driveways or garages.
There was actually quite a bit of boat traffic on the Broads and a few other day boats were heading out as we got back in. We headed off into Norwich, which is a really pretty city with a bad traffic problem. The cathedral and area around it are gorgeous and we spent a while wandering round the cathedral.
They have a labyrinth in the middle of the cloisters, which we walked, and we also found a lovely green man bose in the cloisters. We went up to the castle but didn’t pay the huge entrance fee so just admired its very impressive huge Norman keep from the outside, while getting snowed on again.
Then we headed off around the coast from Cromer and visited some very cut villages. The architecture here is quite different and everything is built with whitish sea stones and trimmed with red brick. Its quite a striking effect and rather quaint.
Sherringham, Cley next the sea, Wells next the sea and Burnham Deepdale were all very cute and had some great wee shops selling local produce including a wee crab restaurant at Salthouse. The coast is quite interesting as it’s a long way out from solid land and the marshes in between are a haven for birds. There are good tracks through and lots of bird hides and consequently all the villages were bursting with twitchers and walkers. We didn’t venture far from the car as the wind was really really cold despite our 15 layers of clothing. We eventually found somewhere to stay at Hunstanton and when we first arrived wondered what we had done. At first glimpse it looked like a mini Blackpool and the B&B was in a row of terraced B&Bs with tacky décor and we got given the honeymoon suite. It was a tiny little room with too much furniture and a 4-poster bed with pink and white lace everywhere – just our style!!! We settle d in and went for a stroll in town and actually really enjoyed it. The weather was still atrocious with howling wind and snow showers but it certainly made the sea wild and the waves were really crashing into the sea wall. We got some fish and chips and sat on the sea wall watching the waves crashing then walked further along the promenade.
I think out of season it’s probably much nicer than in season (like most places) but the amusement arcades were not overbearing and lots of things were closed so it was a pleasant and quiet stroll – aside from the booming of the ocean. We had a quiet evening back in our room nibbling on goodies we had bought during the day and had an early night.
Our breakfast was fairly average and all microwaved but it filled us up well. It was snowing when we woke up and settling and by the time we got to the car there was two inches of snow on it. We had planned to have a walk along the coast and went to the beach at Old Hunstanton, which was also covered in snow right down to the high tide line. It was amazing to see the sand dunes and changing huts and tussock grasses all covered in snow and it was really beautiful.
We walked along the base of the cliffs, which are Palaeolithic, looking for fossils and just enjoying the calm weather and snow.
We also saw a shipwreck buried in the sand and there were lots of spoot shells on the beach and fulmars nesting on the cliffs so it felt a bit like Orkney. Poor fulmars probably didn’t expect to have their nests snowed on! We chatted for a while with and woman and her son who was sledging in the sand dunes, which looked rather fun, then headed on south. We stopped at the lavender farm which had a few interesting ideas for using lavender and I got a cookbook but it was very commercial with not much of their own stuff. I’m sure it would be more interesting in summer as they have the national lavender collection and it would be interesting to see all the different types. We carried on to Sandringham, hoping to get a peek of the house in the snow and visit their farm shop but it was all a bit of a disappointment as we couldn’t see the house even in the distance without paying £9. The farm shop was just a few of their products in the main souvenir shop and although they had rare breed sausages they didn’t say which rare breed, which I thought was poor form. There was supposed to be a farmers market on also but there were only 3 stalls due to the ‘terrible weather’.
It didn’t seem like all the people come out to play and walk their dogs in the woods and the green thought the weather was terrible and like us they all appeared to be having a lovely time walking and playing in the snow. The dogs all loved it and there were snowmen all over the place, and snowballs flying either at someone or with a dog in hot pursuit. We walked along a nice open green through the woods and then carried on to Castle Rising Castle.
It was a spectacular earthwork around the partly ruined medieval castle and clearly had been being used for sledging for most of the morning, however it was now open and the very officious man on the booth took his role rather too seriously and was so busy shoo’ing kids off from sledging on the rapidly melting snow on the earthwork, that he was very slow at issuing tickets. We didn’t go in as it was fairly expensive and looked like the earthwork would be the most interesting part to us, and we could clearly see that from outside, and got a good view of the castle from the top of the earthwork while the man was busy shoo’ing someone else and issuing tickets.
Next stop was the UK’s biggest beer shop where the electricity was off so Steve had a fantastic time exploring the shelves as if he were in a beer cave. Their selection was pretty impressive and I had an interesting chat with the owner about alternative electricity and unusual alcohols like acorn liqueur and chestnut beer. Then we drove through Downham Market which we thought was fairly uninteresting and visited a windmill at Denver briefly before finding a great pub by the river for lunch. It was snowing a bit when we walked in and we sat and had game pie with a view out to the snow and by the roaring fire inside. It was exactly what was required before carrying on to Ely. Ely is a very pretty city with a spectacular cathedral.
There was a service just starting so we could only look around briefly but did get to listen to the acoustics when the choir started singing, which was lovely.
It also has a labyrinth, which we walked, although interestingly it’s right in the main doorway so not easy to walk or spot. The length of the labyrinth is the same as the height of the tower but the design is unique and not even similar to other church labyrinths we’ve seen. We had a stroll around the town in the sunshine and down to the riverside, which was also very pretty. We got heavily snowed on on the way back again although this time it didn’t settle and all that remained of the mornings snow was big piles of melting snowmen. We found a nice B&B in Witchford, just outside Ely and settled in for a quiet evening and cheese and oatcakes for dinner.
On Easter Monday, after another good breakfast we drove north to Peterborough to the Flag Fen Bronze Age Archaeology centre, where we spent three hours looking round and reading everything available followed by a tour from one of the archaeologists. It was particularly interesting because they had reconstruction round houses from the bronze and iron ages and we are planning to build one on our land so we were paying a lot of attention to the detail of construction. The Iron Age house had a reed roof pitched at 45 degrees, which is just right to keep the rain running off, and stop the reeds rotting.
The bronze age house had the roof pitched at 35 degrees so had to have turf to protect the reeds and when wet the turf roof can weigh up to 8 tonnes, therefore it also needed extra support poles indoors.
So its clear that technology improved from the Bronze Age to the Iron Age. Flag Fen is the site of a wooden causeway across the fens built in the Bronze Age that was about the width of a modern road and built with wooden poles in the ground and a wooden platform.
There was also a hectare big wooden platform in the middle that they think was used for ritual purposes. After Flag Fen we headed to Rutland and found another nice pub and it snowed again as we went in although there was no longer any sign of snow on the ground. After a wee drive around Rutland water, which is pretty but not stunning, we went to the turf maze at Wing, which I had been to before and wanted to show Steve. It was lovely and walking it really made the decision of how to build our labyrinth quite easy. It was lovely to walk the turf and the setting was lovely and the labyrinth design was lovely.
We stopped at Welford for a while on the way back and then headed back into Birmingham for another 2 1/2 weeks.
I finally managed to get a farm sorted out for us to go to in France on Wednesday so that made us both happy. The week was otherwise uneventful with just lots of sorting out to be done and, of course, work.
The weekend was quiet and pleasant. We went over to Welford on Saturday morning via Rugby to look at cameras. Some guys from a scrap yard came and picked up the old car and we got £80 for it, which was quite good. Then we went up to Leicester to look at cameras some more and decided to get what we’d seen in Rugby. Back at Welford we went out Badger watching for the evening. It was cold and wet and windy and all sensible badgers were staying indoors
but we did see a fox, which we had also never seen in the wild (alive) before. The next morning we went for a wee forest walk, which was lovely and specifically to look for muntjac deer. They are tiny British deer and we were very lucky to see six of them so we were quite excited by our weekend’s wildlife viewing.
We bought our new camera on the way back through Rugby and got back to Birmingham and got its battery charged and went out to Kenilworth castle to practice with it.
We are both very happy with it and it should be great for the rest of our trip.
The week was busy finishing up things at work and booking final bits of our trip. We got our second farm booked and all the flights back to NZ. On Thursday night I went out with work, to celebrate me and 2 other girls leaving, to a Thai restaurant. By the end of the week, with only 3 working days to go we were relatively well under control – mostly packed and all of our trip home booked. I finally really feel like a kiwi girl and am clear where my home is, and I’m very much looking forward to getting back. However this trip was a very good idea and I’m glad we are here doing what we’re doing (except of course the bit about living in Birmingham). Even if it achieves nothing else it has given me a sense of belonging.
The weather was beautiful all week and on Saturday morning, when we set off to drive to near Leighton Buzzard to visit Stu, it turned lousy and it just rained almost all day. That was actually OK because we just had a lovely afternoon indoors catching up and the boys watch American sport on tele and I did some internet searching for eco-building ideas. Then we had a bottle of champagne and a soak in Stu’s Jacuzzi before dinner. The next morning we had a leisurely start and it had snowed overnight so I did some experimenting with the new camera in Stu’s garden.
We went for lunch at a local pub and then we headed back towards Birmingham. We went via the Cotswolds in hopes of getting some pictures of the Cotswolds in the snow but most of it had melted long before we even left lunch. Fortunately there was a small pocket of snow left fairly isolated to the valley where Great Tew is so we took a fair few pictures there. In the space of 20 minutes we got rained on, snowed on and enjoyed lovely sunshine. It was really pretty and the last we saw of any snow.
It was a bit weird to think its april and we were originally planning to be camping by now and we are sitting watching the snow out the window, even though its not settling. We had the last of our pheasant for dinner as a pie with the leftovers from a gypsy stew I’d made on Friday night. It was not too bad being back in Birmingham at all knowing there is only 3 days left.